How to Pick, Plant and Preserve Your New Tree

Evaluating Your Growing Conditions

The first step in deciding what tree to add to your landscape is looking closely at the environment you will provide for it.

Looking at the Soil 

Clay, silt, sand, organic matter and mineral particulates are all components of soil.  Different variations or “soil recipes” benefit different types of plants.  In nature, these plants would naturally thrive in the areas they like.  However, when home gardening we have to make these decisions for the plant.

At the proposed site of your new tree, dig a small hole with a spade shovel.  Take a handful of that soil and try to make a ball.  Try to make a perfect golf ball and toss it into the air.  Does the soil form a tight ball or does it fall apart?  Did it survive its toss through the air?  If your ball keeps its shape well, it’s mostly clay based soil.  If it falls to pieces in your hand, it’s mostly sand. 

Now we can ask, does your soil hold water?  In the hole we just dug, pour it full of water and time how long it takes to absorb.  This is best done when soil is not naturally saturated such as spring run off or after a heavy rainfall.  It also shouldn’t be the driest time of year. This helps us understand if we should be seeking a water loving plant or one that likes drier conditions. 

Here is a link to how to conduct a jar test.  This gives us even more insight into the contents of our soil!  https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/soil-texture-analysis-the-jar-test/

Available Space

Overhead wires, roofs, other trees and fences are all aspects of our landscapes that are unlikely to move in the future.  Our trees need us to consider them at full growth.  Think about the allowance your site has for its new inhabitants.  How tall can it grow and how wide?

Sun Conditions

If you’re unsure of your site’s sun conditions, check out Suncalc.org.  This is a really helpful way to look at your site’s sun conditions.  Will this tree have full sun? morning or afternoon or none at all?  Consider its sun availability from a small size all the way to its full size. 

Picking the Species

We prepared this article as a free guide to help promote trees with a maximum benefit for our local ecosystem.  That means Keystones should be front runners, in my opinion. 

Check out your Ecoregions keystone species by going to the National Wildlife Federation’s website (resource linked below).  

Trees, shrubs and flowering perennials can all be found by clicking on that link and choosing your appropriate Eco-region.  For Northumberland, we land in Ecozone 8, Eastern Temperate Forest.  We enjoy Keystones such as the White Oak (Quercus alba), , Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus), Northern highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) and Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) to name just a few! 

Additionally, your local conservation authority will most likely have many helpful guides and planting lists available to help you.  Keystones are only the beginning.  We have many wonderful native trees, however some are hard to find.  We will provide some links at the end of this article to help expand your resources. 

Planting

Seedling Planting (Video)

Pssst… did you know that the Ganaraska Conservation Authority has a seedling sale at the beginning of every year?  Here is a link to their super easy and efficient guide to planting a seedling.  Native seedlings are easy to source (mostly), really affordable and very easy to plant.  If you’re willing to plant a seedling, skip to the last part of this article, preserving your new tree.  The video link will tell you all you need to know on planting. 

If you want a bigger tree… it’s a bit more complicated so keep reading… 

Larger Tree Planting (Instructions)

There are many variations on larger trees.  They can come wrapped in burlap, wire cages or in pot’s.  The benefits to planting a larger tree is, well, you get a larger tree.  You can enjoy the tree as soon as it’s planted.  The downsides, they are more expensive and take a bit more thought in planting. 

***These instructions are not all encompassing.  Instructions can vary depending on the size of the tree at planting, whether the tree is in burlap, wire or pot, the type of tree and the soil conditions.  It is always best to seek the opinion of the nursery or a landscape professional for the best long term success of your new tree. 

Tip: Trees are usually best planted when in their dormancy stage. 

1.  Remove any string, labels, ties, wire, burlap or anything that may impede growth or resist the tree’s health. (not applicable to wire basket planting)
2. Water roots generously prior to planting.  
3. Remove any dead, damaged or diseased roots or limbs.
4. Cut or gently tease girdled roots loose. Extremely coiled roots must be removed. 
5. Spread roots radially so they will grow away from the trunk.
6. Prepare a hole to the appropriate size.
7. Ensure your new hole has a mound of undisturbed soil at the center.  This is where your root ball will rest. This undisturbed mound should be high enough so the top of the root ball sits at grade.  In other words, the top of your root ball should be flush with level ground at completion. 
8. Ensure the trees root flare is kept 3 or 4 cm above finished grade (level ground).
9. Replace excavated or amended growing medium around roots by lightly compacting medium by hand in layers. Allow soil to sift between roots at each layer to ensure proper compaction. 
10. Once the roots are 2/3rds of the way covered, water thoroughly and allow water to seep into soil.  Then continue to compact soil by hand. 
11. Construct a 10cm raised “saucer” as a perimeter around the root ball to act as a barrier to allow water infiltration. 
12. Water your new tree deeply.

Tip: Always use sterile landscape tools when pruning.